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Frosty Hesson's 'Chasing Mavericks'

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    Surf legend Frosty Hesson on his book and film 'Chasing Mavericks'

  • Duration 2:43
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Hello everybody this is -- arrived here with fox texture of the author of -- making mavericks in the surf legend.

And he and his protege are the subjects of the fox film chasing mavericks and joining us now frosty Heston who is here with us tells more about this project welcome great to have you here.

Thank you very much first talk about who are these mavericks.

Mavericks.

Is a wave that's in northern California off -- -- Half Moon Bay coast it is one of the largest waves in the world.

And it's in northern California water which means it's cold and lumpy and bumpy and can be nasty it is the biggest in the world.

It's one of the largest and now there's an interest in large wave surfing and people are pursuing ways he's trying to find.

And they have found a couple of ways larger.

But there's.

The just all depends upon the conditions have come together.

Of course this book is more than just about chasing ways a very special -- it comes.

From the heart a story.

-- inspiration why did you decide to write this story and the journey behind it.

-- declined to write the story in the beginning.

But -- was persuaded by reexamining you know was willing to tell the story it's.

And so than it was like if you're going to be consistent -- -- need to tell the story view and that was a real struggle for -- But people said it was worthy and so I did tell the story.

And there are some important points to this to this book.

I -- the story itself.

How did you come to me.

YE.

Was this so important relationship the father son like friendship to continue.

The relationship just evolved out he approached me as a twelve year old kid he did he just knocked on the man.

And I -- my window down and looked at this little kid he was like are you -- and -- -- -- -- Sam wouldn't cancel my name is -- more minority.

And I'd like to talk to you about helping me learn how to serve.

And I'm like cracking up on the inside and accessible and how did you hear about me he goes well my wood -- teacher Kevin missed.

Has been working with a number of us that -- would shop and since your coaching him he had told us that you were coaching him I just saw it coming you.

On them talk about guts you know and coming up with a lot of it's -- I know that a lot of folks are gonna love.

It we've seen that -- -- reading the book and seen the film and I know that you're very.

Excited about all of -- -- all the best to you pretend he's somewhat changed so much for joining us frosty Rick -- then chasing mavericks stars Gerard Butler as frosty and -- US AJ Moriarty.

You can get a copy of -- bookmaking -- -- -- of -- dot com.

As they give fox -- I'm Uma Pemmaraju thanks for watching.

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